A drowsy stillness envelops Atelier Rose as morning breaks. Heavy velvet drapes keep the world at bay, allowing us to linger in crisp, fresh linens and plump pillows. We've escaped to this grand, historic home in Eardisland – one of England's prettiest 'black and white' villages – for a family getaway. The sun gently asserts its presence, warming the many-paned windows of our cavernous master bedroom, the promise of a classic English summer's day stretching ahead.
Our two children, once awake, dive headlong into discovery. A wheelbarrow brimming with childhood classics awaits at the foot of their beds. Their eyes light up as they uncover a chest overflowing with toys and games, diving in with unbridled enthusiasm.
Atelier Rose is a living museum. Each high-ceilinged room tells a story: ornate cornicing crowns the lofty dining room, aged wooden floors run through soft-hued bedrooms, and centuries-old brickwork stands exposed. Carefully curated books and antiques add to the sense of stepping back in time. The medieval wing, we're told, once sheltered knights and noblemen before the War of the Roses in 1485 – a nod to England's tumultuous past echoing through the halls. Even the downstairs lavatory offers a quirky tour through time; faded photographs line the walls, featuring former inhabitants in elaborate hats, posed with their elegant hounds. It's an unexpected treasure trove for the inquisitive.
Rumbling tummies signal breakfast time, and the local village store, housed in a 17th-century Georgian dovecot, doesn't disappoint. Eardisland's community shop is a testament to local spirit. Volunteers stock the shelves daily with regional produce, and we head back with golden butter, artisanal bread, and eggs that feel warm to the touch in hand.
The short walk back along the River Arrow offers a pleasant interlude. Across the river, a parade of Tudor-framed houses stands proudly, their timbers etched against the brightening sky. It's a scene that belongs on a postcard. I pause to admire a well-manicured strip of grass hugging the riverbank, soon realising it's part of Atelier Rose's grounds. The temptation to scrap our plans for a languid day of riverside picnicking and fishing is strong.
After a hearty alfresco breakfast, the children are bursting with energy. Atelier Rose is designed for exploration, its open doors an invitation to adventure. In no time, they're playfully weaving through pathways, cartwheeling across the lawn and scaling the treehouse. As they survey their temporary kingdom, we amble through the orchard, marvelling at the variety of heritage apple trees.
The red-brick walled garden is a beautiful space. It gently leans into a relaxed cottage feel, despite a formal, structured backdrop. Towering topiary stands guard over a profusion of flowers. Sprawling herbs nudge at pathways, while tumbling roses shed their petals like nature's confetti. Bees busy themselves among the large lupin spikes, heavy with pollen, ready to return to their hive in the orchard.
We venture out to The Riverside for lunch, a sustainable restaurant recommended by Atelier's owner. Set in a 16th-century timber-framed building on the banks of the River Lugg, we enjoy tea-smoked trout surrounded by tiered gardens bursting with colour.
The afternoon unfolds at a leisurely pace. I alternate between losing myself in a book on the sun-streaked lawn and refereeing impromptu croquet matches. Eventually, the allure of the home cinema proves too strong for the children, who disappear into its cosy interior.
With a moment to myself, I delve into the kitchen's collection of vintage cookbooks. Ambrose Heath's culinary wisdom, preserved since 1969, provides an amusing counterpoint to our casual barbeque plans. While he might raise an eyebrow at our 'bangers and mash' approach, favouring 'chilled cucumber soup' or 'toothsome cold duckling aux mandarines,' I think he'd approve of our fireside cooking method. In any case, the journey from flame to table is delightfully short.
As twilight descends and the children are tucked in, we retreat to the orangery. The showstopper awaits: an enormous tin bathtub, its burnished surface reflecting the last light of day. Filled to the brim with steaming water, it becomes our unconventional stargazing spot. We float contentedly as the first stars pierce the deepening sky.
A final glance out the window reveals the Tudor houses across the river, their white facades gleaming in the moonlight. As I make a mental note to file this under 'perfect summer days', I can't help but think Atelier Rose has perfected the art of time travel – if only for a weekend.
Feeling inspired? Read more Travellers' Tales here or find your own family-friendly stay.