Next month, The Salt Path film will take to the big screen, bringing to life Raynor Winn’s tale of struggle, love and indomitable strength, and the healing power that total immersion in nature can bring. We headed to the wild 630-mile stretch of South West Coast Path – where the story takes its name from and sets its scene – to follow in Winn’s footsteps, discovering 23 of our hidden gem coastal homes peppered along the route to take shelter in on the way.
Equipped with walking boots, a CamelBak of water, a picnic of brown paper-parcelled sandwiches and a good, old-fashioned map, we made for Somerset to join the first leg of Winn's salt path; enjoying its golden beaches and soaring cliffs before heading southward.
pictured: The Brandy Thief and Ivy cove
Arriving in Devon, we passed Lynmouth and Lynton en route to the quiet Lee Bay cove before stopping at waterfront stone cottage The Brandy Thief to take refuge for the night – just as notorious smuggler Hannibal Richards is said to have done. Exploring the sandy shores and pretty coastal hamlets Devon is loved for, from Woolacombe to Croyde, we reached the sleepy fishing village of Clovelly before unwinding at The Creamery nearby, sipping Devonshire cider in the cottage garden as the sun set. The path continued to snake further south, where we reached Noss Mayo, warming frosty toes by the fire at Ivy Cove; a sea-facing converted barn complete with private beach. Lulled into a deep sleep by the natural lullaby of whistling wind and lapping waves, we awoke ready to tackle the rest of the county, from Salcombe to Blackpool Sands, before arriving in Plymouth to cross the bridge. For Cornwall was calling.
Resisting the urge to not burst into song with John Denver’s Take Me Home, Country Roads when back on Cornish soil – the longest section of the path – we began in Bude; one of the book’s most prominent locations. Opting for a bracing dip in the tidal pool, back home at clifftop hideaway Northcott Beach House, we thawed and refuelled with stacks of buttered toast and marmalade. Across north Cornwall’s renowned craggy headlands, we journeyed to Boscastle, hunkering down in romantic converted chapel Aphrodite, and then on to Port Isaac; the idyllic fishing village made famous thanks to a certain Doc Martin. With tired legs, we stole some quiet moments in Victorian manor house Salterton’s library; flicking through the poignant pages of The Salt Path to continue motivating us. Winn’s quotes had a striking resonance during this moment of reflection within this wild adventure, notably “Life is now, this minute, it's all we have."
Pictured: Northcott Beach House and Alba Beach House
Through mid-Cornwall we continued, catching glimpses of blood orange sunsets at renowned surf spots Watergate Bay and Fistral, before calling it a day at The Hatch; a charming former fudge-maker's thatch just a few steps from Crantock beach. Counting our lucky stars that frozen, open-air nights beneath canvas as in Winn’s case were, instead, spent restfully snoozing in marshmallow-soft beds. Onto Perranporth, we hid behind glass at luxury architectural home Stratum on a particularly drizzly evening, before winding along to Portreath. Monterey was our next stop; a showstopping California-cool oceanfront home, where the morning sea breeze floated in through linen curtains, and the swell could be checked from the comfort of bed.
Onwards to Portreath, we sipped hot cocoa on the porch at The Viewing Gallery like a scene from The Notebook, and onto the three-mile stretch of Gwithian's golden sand. Here, we stayed at chic beach house Lightkeepers – fighting over who would get the keys to the master suite with views over Godrevy lighthouse and beyond. Onto the cobbled streets of St Ives, renowned for its azure water and trendy food spots, we took refuge at pink fisherman’s cottage Alba Beach House right on the white, sugar-soft sands of Porthmeor beach.
Pictured: The Signal Station and Amaia
Now to the wild west. From the untamed beauty of Zennor and Land’s End to the tropical Porthcurno and Pedn Vounder beaches, we ploughed through to Mousehole; one of Cornwall’s most romantic postcard-perfect villages, enjoying salt and vinegar-laced fish 'n' chips right from the paper at frontline honey-stone cottage Kailani. Passing the iconic St Michael’s Mount, we ventured further south – our next designated stop being in the beloved fishing village of Porthleven – home to Villa Boden; where we watched surfers dance with the waves on the reef break, and dolphins frolic in the golden-hour light from the balcony.
Deep south, we ventured through some of Cornwall’s most remote, unspoiled coastlines including the much-photographed Kynance Cove, where our next retreat emerged, unmissable in the distance. The Signal Station is an iconic castle-like structure embracing all the elements on The Lizard; the UK’s most southerly tip. After supper we headed to the roof terrace to catch the sunset, chilled glass of Cornish shrub in-hand thanks to the very welcome rooftop bar. Onwards to Coverack, we unwound by the fire at contemporary home Ukiyo and it was onto the magical Helford estuary; where we kicked off muddy boots at the door of Wildwood Holt; a comforting home-away-from-home for the night.
Passing the Roseland Peninsula, we soothed sore limbs in the wood-fired hot tub at Mesmire, then continuing to the popular seaside town of Looe; taking advantage of the private beach access at cliffside haven Amaia. Onto Whitsand Bay, we enjoyed our final Cornish stay at Suki; the antithesis of the traditional coastal beach hut – where nautical stripes and seaside paraphernalia are replaced with chic modernism and a soothing palette of blush pink.
Pictured: Watermark and Sugar Ray
Passing back through Devon’s south coast, including a stop-off at Watermark; a unique built-into-the-cliffside house located right on the edge of the River Dart, the final leg of our salt path journey was spent in Dorset. Starting in Lyme Regis, the “pearl of Dorset”, we stayed the night at Fjall, hidden amongst the trees overlooking the famous Jurassic Coast beneath. From here, we continued and spent our final homestay at Burton Bradstock cabin Sugar Ray, relishing in a sunset swim in the outdoor swimming pool before an al fresco barbecue. Passing the iconic sites of Durdle Door, Lulworth Cove and Old Harry Rocks as we completed the final stretch, just as Raynor and partner Moth did, before toasting the end of our adventure as we reached the last checkpoint of Poole Harbour.
Despite a luxurious spin on Winn’s impressive feat of determination and absolute submission to Mother Nature herself, takings from her tale The Salt Path resonate – how lucky we are to have this impressive coastline right at our fingertips. And, within such times of uncertainty, that we should all be embracing the natural world around us to reap its transformative, healing powers. Even if only one step at a time. “Meet me there, where the sea meets the sky. Lost but finally free.”
Feeling inspired? Peruse our collection of coastal retreats, or view the best places to stay in Somerset, Devon, Cornwall or Dorset to plan your South West Coast Path adventure.
